I've been to Japan in every season now, and every single time someone asks me "when should I go?" I pause before answering. Because the honest answer is: it depends on what you can handle — and what y...
When I first arrived in Tokyo, I stood outside Shinjuku Station with my backpack and a printed map and felt — for the first time in years of travel — genuinely overwhelmed. Not scared. Just small. The...
My first Japan trip was almost perfect. Almost. The gap between "almost perfect" and "perfect" was filled with small mistakes that were entirely avoidable — and looking back, every single one of them ...
Kyoto is the city that made me fall in love with Japan, and also the city that has frustrated me more than anywhere else on earth. Both of those things are true, and understanding why will make your t...
There's a phrase Osaka people use about themselves: kuidaore. It roughly translates to "eat yourself bankrupt." The first time someone explained it to me over a shared plate of takoyaki outside Dotonb...




