Eating Cheaply in Bali: Where the Real Food Is

The warung is the answer to almost every food question in Bali

A warung is a small Indonesian family restaurant — usually 4–8 plastic tables, a menu written in Indonesian or a display of prepared dishes, and prices that make you question whether you’ve read the menu correctly. IDR 25,000–45,000 for a complete meal. This is where Balinese and Indonesian workers eat, and the food is excellent.

The warungs in Canggu that attract digital nomads are slightly more expensive (IDR 45,000–70,000) and have English menus. Still cheap. Still good. Not the same as the old-school ones a 5-minute walk off the main road.

What to order

Nasi campur: rice with an assortment of small dishes around it — tempeh, vegetables, tofu, sometimes a small amount of meat or fish, sambal. The Balinese version has lawar (minced meat and vegetable salad with coconut) and babi guling-seasoned dishes on good days. IDR 20,000–45,000.

Mie goreng / nasi goreng: stir-fried noodles or rice, egg, vegetables, optional protein. The version at a proper warung is different from the tourist restaurant version — crispier, more savory, better sambal alongside. IDR 18,000–35,000.

Sate: grilled meat skewers, usually pork or chicken with peanut sauce. IDR 20,000–30,000 for 5–10 sticks at a warung or street cart.

The Pasar Badung market in Denpasar

Bali’s largest traditional market has a food section on the upper floors that serves local breakfasts from 6–10am. Dishes from IDR 10,000–25,000. Very much off the tourist circuit — take a Grab to Pasar Badung and spend a morning eating things you won’t find in Canggu. Jaje Bali (traditional Balinese snacks) are sold by the weight in the market’s snack section and make excellent value breakfast food.