Hue: Vietnam’s Most Undervisited Major City

Everyone rushes through and everyone regrets it

Hue gets squeezed between Hoi An and Hanoi in most Vietnam itineraries and typically gets one night. That’s not enough. The former imperial capital deserves at least two nights — ideally three — and the people who spend that time consistently rank it as a Vietnam highlight. I was one of the people who rushed through the first time. The second visit I gave it three nights and it became my favorite Vietnamese city.

The Imperial City

Vietnam’s Forbidden City — a walled citadel within a citadel, modeled on Beijing’s but distinctly Vietnamese. About 40% of the complex was destroyed during the 1968 Tet Offensive and subsequent conflict; what remains is still extraordinary. 200,000 VND entry. Allow half a day. The Forbidden Purple City inside the Imperial City is particularly atmospheric — ruined buildings being slowly reclaimed by vegetation, a few restored to glory.

The royal tombs

Seven emperors’ tombs are spread across the surrounding countryside, each a separate architectural complex reflecting the emperor’s personality. Minh Mang’s tomb (most formal and complete), Tu Duc’s tomb (most romantic, built in his lifetime as a retreat), and Khai Dinh’s tomb (flamboyantly French-Vietnamese hybrid, bizarre and fascinating) are the three worth visiting. Rent a motorbike for the day (100,000 VND) and visit all three — they’re 10–15km from the city center.

Hue food: a separate pilgrimage

Hue food is Vietnamese cuisine at its most refined and most varied — the former imperial kitchen demanded complexity. Bun bo hue (spicy beef and pork noodle soup) is the famous one, genuinely superior to versions made elsewhere. Banh khoai (crispy rice crepe), com hen (clam rice), and banh beo (steamed rice cakes with shrimp) are all Hue specialties worth tracking down. Budget 40,000–80,000 VND per dish at local spots.